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Everything Dirt Bike
Make / Model Specific
Honda
1988 CR250R Wont start / Wet Plug
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<blockquote data-quote="SRAD97750" data-source="post: 177420" data-attributes="member: 425"><p>I wouldn't try to bend a rotor. That would be a replacement for me.</p><p></p><p>Depends on how far down the cylinder the nick is. The piston rings only come just past the lowest port. If it's below that area, you're fine.</p><p></p><p>If you were to hone a cylinder...</p><p>These hones are straight forward. You make sure not to let it fall into a port while turning. Gives you more than a couple inches of stroke, which is more than enough to crosshatch a cylinder.</p><p>I use my table mounted drill press set to the slowest speed (180 RPM), and set the depth so that the hone doesn't hit the bucket the cylinder is sitting in. In my experience, hitting the bucket is much more violent than falling into a port momentarily. <img src="https://www.dirtbikeaddicts.com/static/images/smilies/smirk.gif" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":smirk:" title="Smirk :smirk:" data-shortname=":smirk:" /></p><p>Be sure to provide oil or transmission fluid regularly directly to the hone blades. Keep the up and down movement slow and smooth. If it starts hollering or screaming, you need more lube! You'll find a sweet balance of oil application to keep the hone quiet and still really start cutting into the bore. I think a oil gun squirt every 3-6 seconds was about right. You'll see the black steel particles collecting around the top of the cylinder in the excess oil. I use this as a gauge for how deep I'm cutting.</p><p>Don't be afraid, on the stiffest setting, these hones can take maybe .001" per 30 minutes of honing at that speed. It's just for removing light scratches and whatnot.</p><p>-BIG DAN<img src="https://www.dirtbikeaddicts.com/static/images/smilies/thumb.gif" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":thumb:" title="Thumb :thumb:" data-shortname=":thumb:" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SRAD97750, post: 177420, member: 425"] I wouldn't try to bend a rotor. That would be a replacement for me. Depends on how far down the cylinder the nick is. The piston rings only come just past the lowest port. If it's below that area, you're fine. If you were to hone a cylinder... These hones are straight forward. You make sure not to let it fall into a port while turning. Gives you more than a couple inches of stroke, which is more than enough to crosshatch a cylinder. I use my table mounted drill press set to the slowest speed (180 RPM), and set the depth so that the hone doesn't hit the bucket the cylinder is sitting in. In my experience, hitting the bucket is much more violent than falling into a port momentarily. :smirk: Be sure to provide oil or transmission fluid regularly directly to the hone blades. Keep the up and down movement slow and smooth. If it starts hollering or screaming, you need more lube! You'll find a sweet balance of oil application to keep the hone quiet and still really start cutting into the bore. I think a oil gun squirt every 3-6 seconds was about right. You'll see the black steel particles collecting around the top of the cylinder in the excess oil. I use this as a gauge for how deep I'm cutting. Don't be afraid, on the stiffest setting, these hones can take maybe .001" per 30 minutes of honing at that speed. It's just for removing light scratches and whatnot. -BIG DAN:thumb: [/QUOTE]
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Everything Dirt Bike
Make / Model Specific
Honda
1988 CR250R Wont start / Wet Plug
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