Sorry to be back so soon. Help is NEEDED!

Ok, so following manual and some videos, they advise to check valve clearance after break in. So I decided to do so, upon opening top end, I find timing has jumped a bunch of teeth, so I decided to start tearing down motor to check vavles, to see if they were bent.(I loosened the 4 head bolts before draining anti freeze and according to someone in a fb group, thats probably the cause of anti freeze all in my head, cylinder and bottom end because I drained oil first and anti freeze didnt come pouring out which I would expect it to if all this anti freeze was already down here). Now, when I drained oil, did notice it being a lil milky, probably due to me not fully following procedure with bolting down 4 head bolts properly, as manual informed a specific procedure.

I will be attaching photos seperately to post, so each question I asked can hopefully be responded to directly to ease my paranoia mind and help me proceed with next steps.
 
Based on how my old valves looked when bent, this dnt look bent but please, someone with more knowledge and experience, based on visual inspection of top on piston and valves, do everything still looks good?
No issues with turning over motor, turned over smooth, nothing was stuck and seeming like it was grinding. All rings are still in place and bore of cylinder is still perfect, no nicks,and damage to it. Ran my hand smooth around the inside of surface.
 

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Anti freeze all the way into cylinder. Dont know how it would have gotten all yhe way down here. Check out second photo, with anti freeze inside the dowel lin area, and not seaping fully into bottom end, is it safe to say that my bottom end case and seals are all intact and sealing properly? I really want to determine how all this anti freeze got down in bottom end.
 

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How much time on engine ?
I had both stator plug screws removed before unbolting head, to get TDC, no anti freeze came put of stator area, so I thinking if anti freeze was already in bottom end, before I decided to unbolt head bolts without draining anti freeze, then it would of came out of stator area, right? Trying to get a understanding on how anti freeze is everywhere. As I said, a dude said it happened because I unbolted head bolts before draining anti freeze, I just want to be sure thats the cause. So trying to do process of elimination based on logical thinking.
 
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Anti freeze all the way into cylinder. Dont know how it would have gotten all yhe way down here. Check out second photo, with anti freeze inside the dowel lin area, and not seaping fully into bottom end, is it safe to say that my bottom end case and seals are all intact and sealing properly? I really want to determine how all this anti freeze got down in bottom end.
Valves are probably fine, but a quick way to check is to spray carb clean on the back of the valves and look if it leaks or pours by the valve and seat.
 
Yep, water gets everywhere. Not even something to consider after you have taken the head bolts loose.
Set the timing, put it back together and check the valve clearances.
Report back. -BIG DAN:thumb:
Ok. Today should have time to do that. Was thinking I was going to have to bust motor open again so was taking things apart last late.
Will just blow compressed air in bottom end, try to get all the liquid out, then put her back together.
Any ideas on how my chain skipped timing? Chain was new, but should I go ahead and just purchase a new one?
 
Ok. Today should have time to do that. Was thinking I was going to have to bust motor open again so was taking things apart last late.
Will just blow compressed air in bottom end, try to get all the liquid out, then put her back together.
Any ideas on how my chain skipped timing? Chain was new, but should I go ahead and just purchase a new one?
Did you replace the tensioner?
 
Did you replace the tensioner?
No, I seen a video showing if I can wind it in, and when I tap it, if it releases on its own then its still good but if more knowledgeable people think its possibly a cause that contributed to skipped timing and thay its best to replace then I have no problem doing so. Oem is only 50-70 bucks I think
 
On a 2 - 3 hr. Bike ? I just don't understand ... maybe kicked out of time on disassembly ? Why dissassemble a running bike ? With only 2 - 3 hrs. run time ? I just don't understand ....
 
I would not have opened this up after you had it running. But concerning you said "timing jumped ab bunch of teeth". How do you know this? and wasn't the bike running good before you took it back apart? If timing was way off, the bike would not be running.
 
I would not have opened this up after you had it running. But concerning you said "timing jumped ab bunch of teeth". How do you know this? and wasn't the bike running good before you took it back apart? If timing was way off, the bike would not be running.
It was running good in the beginning, I started tweaking with Pilot screw, turned it all the way out if I recall correctly, tried kicking it, felt like it had NO compression when I did that, so thrn turned screw back in and it felt back to normal. Was having issues with staying running after it warmed up. Cold start it would start first kick, after it got warm it would stall and die out while I was riding it. So continued to tweak with pilot screw. Did a bunch of googling while at work so when I got home. I checked timing. Seen that timing was off and based on what I gathered online, people said if timing is ever off its a chance vavles got bent, so I decided to tear bike down and check before I fucked it up more by just "hoping" all was good
 
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