Other Harley brake rotor question...

My 93 Softail's rear brake rotor is gone, went metal on metal, was like that when I bought it.
I tried to remove the bolts to install a new one, but they were seized in tight. So I went after it with a chisel like I was taught to do when situations like this arise, to no avail, and screwed up the bolts pretty good. I did get one out, the one thats drilled.
So I went and spent $450 on a new Snap-on set of Standard Torx and Allen sockets. In my experience dealing with Allen's, every other brand but Snap-on stripped out horribly. My metric Snap-on Allen's have never stripped and I've had them for a decade, so I decided to spend the cash and get the torx and allen's for the Harley, thinking I would be doing myself a favor. And I dont regret that decision.
But I snapped that brand new Snap-on T-45 like it was nothing, and this was after I heated the hub with a MAP torch.
So today I got the replacement T-45, and need to get the other 4 bolts out.

Now, I have a rosebud for my oxy/acetylene torch and am thinking this should do the trick, but I'm worried about what it might do the the aluminum hub cosmetically. (It's not magnetic so I'm assuming it's aluminum - it wouldn't be titanium would it?) It's the rear wheel and its a bagger so it will be mostly hidden, but I figured I would make a post here to see if any of you gurus have some advice on what the pitfalls might be, and how to go about the job. And if it'll screw up the finish of the hub...

Also, I bought new seals and bearings already, anticipating their demise.
Rear rotor.jpg
Also, the reason I drilled the one bolt was because I was hoping that they were counter-sunk (some of them are), but they're not. I figured if they were, I could at least get the rotor off, then deal with how to get the remaining bolts out afterward, but thats not the case.
I would soak them in a penetrating oil, then weld a bolt or nut to it.

I have gotten the front rotor bolts off of the YZ that way many times.
then weld a bolt or nut to it.
That is a great idea. I have heard of people doing this in the past, but have never tried it, or needed to.
A large nut on top, welded on the inside...I'm liking that idea.
It was my intention after having removed the rotor, to put regular hex-head bolts in there instead to make sure it never happens again. I was told they might not clear the caliper though...
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I would simply re-install with a counter sunk torx or allen again and use blue lock tight. Doubt you run into it again anyway,
I would simply re-install with a counter sunk torx or allen again and use blue lock tight. Doubt you run into it again anyway,
That was my thought too. I would have never let it get that far in the first place. I do hate Torx though, I dont care what anybody says about their "grippiness", they suck.
I changed the rear rotor on my road king a while back and the bolts wouldn’t budge. I had to go to Timo’s place and he used his acetylene torch and a breaker bar on them. Still a pain in the ass, but it worked. No damage to hub.
That’s the place to get shit done brutha!
Torx rock.
I totally disagree, and here is why.
What strips easier, a 6 point, or a 12 point?
I was taught very early in my wrenching career that the less "points" of contact you have, the less chance of stripping, and it has proven true in my experience.
So what is a normal bolt? 6 points.
Whats less?
Nothing thats in our regular vocabulary of bolts.
No 5 points that I recall, some 4 points (square) but they're not used in any mechanical devices that I know of, maybe some roofing nails (and why is that?)...
Whats left? 3 point triangles? I've never seen one.
And what is a 2 point? A flat bladed screw-driver, right?

IMO, if we really wanted the toughest bolt to strip, it would be a 3 point triangle. But we dont see them, I wonder why?


Torx suck, and nobody will ever convince me otherwise.
Yep, thats where I saw them last. I said roofing nails, my bad, I dont build decks, or roofs. But I knew that they aint used to hold any mechanical parts together, which was my point.
They are used on breakers. Electricity is a moving part IMO, since it can vibrate, it will work a bolt loose.
If I was dealing with this I would order new bolts and drill out the old ones, install heli coils and be done with it. After it’s done you have steel bolts in steel threads, no chance for galvanic corrosion from two dissimilar metals. By the way, I have rounded off manny of snap on Allen’s, while every single torx snap on or not, that has failed, did so because it snapped, this tells me torx grabs much more than Allen’s.
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