Do I need a new tyre

Yeah I'm not hammering it everywere. Hoping to catch a track soon and give that a go. Hit a few jumps today, my rear wheel kept trying to buck me off, what am I doing wrong
 
The most important thing you can to do to improve the handling of your bike is to set your sag. When you sit on your motorcycle your bike 'sags' or compresses under your weight. The amount of sag affects handling by changing the ride height of your motorcycle fore and aft. Understanding how sag works lets you fine tune your bike so it will perform it's best.

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To determine rider sag put your bike on a stand with the wheels off the ground and measure the distance from the rear axle to a fixed point near the rear fender/side panel. The fixed point should be along the arc that the axle travels when the shock is compressed.

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Stand on the footpegs as it gives a more consistent measurement than sitting on the seat. Bounce lightly on the bike to overcome stiction and measure the compressed distance. The difference between the two is the rider sag. The correct amount is approximately 33% of the bikes total available travel, usually between 95-115mm on full size bikes. The correct amount varies because of bike geometry, rider preference, and type of riding. The rider sag should be set with the rider in full gear. The bike should have correct levels of fluids, be free of excess mud, and the shock should be cool to the touch as heat build up changes sag levels.

Once you have determined your rider sag it is a good idea to check your free sag. The free sag is the amount the bike compresses under its own weight. The free sag determines if you have the correct spring rate for your weight. On full size bikes this can range from 25-45mm. If you are towards the extremes of this range you should consider a different shock spring. If you have around 25mm or less free sag your spring has too much preload on it to get the proper rider sag and your spring rate is too soft. If you have around or more than 45mm you don't have enough preload on your spring and should consider a softer spring.

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On most bikes you change the sag of your bike with a hammer and punch. After loosening the shock springs lockring you can turn the spring preload ring to increase or decrease sag. Usually 1 complete turn changes the sag by about 3mm. If your shock is hot from riding it is best to note sag changes by the amount of turns in or out since the rider sag was set. For example, rider sag at the beginning of the day is 102mm and the best setting is 1 turn softer than that.

It is to your benefit to test different sag settings for various conditions as it has a huge cause and effect. Decreasing the sag of your bike generally makes it quicker handling but reduces high speed stability. Decrease sag on tight courses to improve steering accuracy and in muddy conditions to handle weight build up. Increasing the sag of your bike usually makes it more stable but decreases front end traction and cornering ability. Increase your sag on high speed and sandy tracks to improve stability. Too much sag will cause your front end to be too light and deflect off bumps and too little sag will cause your shock to be too stiff on bumps. A soft spring will initially ride high in the rear because it needs to be preloaded more than a stiffer spring. Conversely, a stiff spring will have a lower initial ride height but will feel more firm on bigger bumps because of it's rate. Changing rider sag can also correct a motorcycle chassis if it is unbalanced. A bike that has a stink bug stance can be leveled out by increasing sag to produce an even, predictable ride height. You should check your sag before every ride or as a minimum at least once a month.
 
I wouldn't worry too much about tire failure as much as you would really benefit from having a new front tire. Those lugs are pretty rounded off and aren't going to bite well. When it comes to track riding it's all in the corners. Practice cornering and remember elbows up balls on tank push on the outside peg and lift your inside
leg. Don't get lazy! Good luck!
 
I personally would replace asap but wouldn't hesitate to make a ride day with it. The main thing is the the side will flex more so you won't get the same amount of bite.
 
I wouldn't worry too much about tire failure as much as you would really benefit from having a new front tire. Those lugs are pretty rounded off and aren't going to bite well. When it comes to track riding it's all in the corners. Practice cornering and remember elbows up balls on tank push on the outside peg and lift your inside
leg. Don't get lazy! Good luck!
you would love some of the tires I've raced on over the years.
 
me too. take a new set of the best hard track tires you can find up to moab and ride those rocks. watch the guys who have been there before, riding in tires too worn to identify. look fast, before they are gone.
 
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