Brake problems

stwarrior23

stwarrior23

So today i decided to replace my brake pads and ran into some problems, I had to move the piston back with a c-clamp and then I replaced everything and bled the line a little but not fully and not with a bottle. Which i think is my problem

So now the piston is not moving anymore at all and I'm assuming it is air bubbles in the brake line because I did not go through the correct process , the brake is very soft to the touch as in when I press the brake its effortlessly goes in.

Its my front brakes and I feel like i should just bled them the right way?

thanks for any help guys
 
SRAD97750

SRAD97750

Moderator
Staff member
stwarrior23:
So today i decided to replace my brake pads and ran into some problems, I had to move the piston back with a c-clamp and then I replaced everything and bled the line a little but not fully and not with a bottle. Which i think is my problem

So now the piston is not moving anymore at all and I'm assuming it is air bubbles in the brake line because I did not go through the correct process , the brake is very soft to the touch as in when I press the brake its effortlessly goes in.

Its my front brakes and I feel like i should just bled them the right way?

thanks for any help guys
Click to expand...
Open the master cylinder cap and set the bars so the reservoir is level-ish. Fill it with fresh brake fluid without spilling.
I like to get a clear hose long enough to reach the ground, but not much more. Attach one end to the bleed valve nipple :smirk: and the other end you put into a bottle, with an inch or so of brake fluid in it, submerging the tip:smirk:.
Then pump the lever a bit, hold the lever to the bar, and crack the bleed valve. Some fluid should come out into the hose. If not, close the bleed valve and pump the lever again, hold it to the bar, crack the bleed valve and repeat until there is some fluid in the hose from the bleed valve.
Once you have an inch of fluid in the hose from the caliper side and the other tip is submerged, there is no way to suck more air into the system. Unless you let the master cylinder reservoir run low.:prof:
BE SURE TO TOP OFF THE RESERVOIR REGULARLY.
Leave the bleed valve open and slowly pump the lever while tapping the brake hose. Fluid should flow through the hose into the bottle. Air trapped in the system will make it spurt or jump about.:smirk: Air can also make the fluid look hazy. Air bubbles will rise through the master cylinder when you release the lever. These are all excellent signs you are purging the air from the system.
Continue pumping fluid through the system, tapping the brake hose, until it is clean and clear with no bubbles.
BE SURE TO TOP OFF THE RESERVOIR REGULARLY. Close the valve and check the system builds pressure against the rotors.

Usually one or two rounds of fluid exchange gets all the air out of even the trickiest systems.-BIG DAN:thumb:
 
2strokesteve89

2strokesteve89

When you collapse the caliper piston it is highly recomended that you open the bleeder screw to allow the fluid to go out there rather than back thru the line into the master cylinder. The reason being that the fluid that previously was sitting in a spot that generates heat and where if any moisture got into the system would have settled at the caliper, there could be rust or dirty fluid in there and if you push it back into the mc it could cause problems that you don't want. It does not happen regularly but when it happens one time to you, you will remember to always take this precaution.
 
Last edited:
stwarrior23

stwarrior23

thanks guys, you always give great advice and i am greatful for that. i will let you guys know tomorrow how it goes. One bottle of dot4, should be plenty right?
 
stwarrior23

stwarrior23

2strokesteve89:
Probably last you longer than you keep the bike.
Click to expand...

so i bought the brake fluid, and watched a couple youtube videos on how to make a bottle. So i started and everything was going good i saw bubbles coming out of the master cylinder and i saw bubbles in the line. So after a while i saw that the piston didnt really seem to be pushing against the brake and the brake was not getting any tougher or easier to pull. so i pulled it apart and made sure to push the piston back with a c-clamp and open the valve this time and saw air coming out so i thought that was good then went back and bleed the line again and still i have no brakes.

i feel like im doing more harm then good here, i basically went through the whole bottle and i always made sure i was topping it off regularly and throughout the whole time i saw bubbles and i only crack the valve a little not enough to let air through the screw.
 
SRAD97750

SRAD97750

Moderator
Staff member
Yeah, something is wrong.
Makes me wonder if your master cylinder is bad. Air is getting into the system somehow. -BIG DAN:thumb:
 
stwarrior23

stwarrior23

SRAD97750:
Yeah, something is wrong.
Makes me wonder if your master cylinder is bad. Air is getting into the system somehow. -BIG DAN:thumb:
Click to expand...

well i forgot to mention that the piston does move when the brake pads arent on it thats why i had to use the c-clamp? maybe my bleeder bottle is just not working right? i just made one from home.

how much would it be at a repair shop to bleed the line and refill with brake fluid 50$?
 
O

ossagp

You can buy a real vacuum pump for less. I Like the bottom fill method best when you have flushed it out like you have. I have another fast easy method if you have a brother inlaw who owns a car. Maybe you have a company car?
 
2strokesteve89

2strokesteve89

The best way I've found is to hold my finger over the open bleeder as the brake lever is pumped. This will get most of the air out before you do the final bleed....but as Dan said over and over, make sure you keep the mc reservoir full.
 
Top