Best way to deglaze a cylinder ?

Like to hear some thoughts on this?

Best way to deglaze a cylinder and or remove aluminum that has transferred but not affected the cylinder Finnish/ surface :thinking:
 
I use a ball hone, use oil for lubrication and run the hone thru the cylinder sparingly, on a plated cylinder it only takes a few passes before the cylinder is cleaned up satisfactorily. After your finished I recomend using warm soapy water to remove any material left over from the honing process. After the water has been dried coat the cylinder surface lightly with oil before reassembly.
 
I have never had a hone do a satisfactory job of removing aluminum. It hits it, it bounces over it. If you run one of the finger hones on it long enough to remove the aluminum and it may take some of what you don't want off the rest of the surface. Muratic acid and a suitable brush, 1-3 applications.

After it is rinsed out enough to see well enough to determine that your bore is indeed clean, I use an aluminum oxide hone as 2stroke mentions. I size mine to where you can stick it into the bore and shake it to make it fall through. Usually I put a cylinder into a pan of water to hone it(the hone just seems to stay fresher if I do that). once out clean it in very hot water and soap. If If I am going to put it away for any length of time I spray something light on it, even wd40. If I am going to use any oil on the cylinder during assembly it is now atf that I rub off with a clean towel once it is coated. (look at the towel and see if it is really clean.)
 
Thanks guys!! :). Liked to hear your input an this subject. All are good awsners!! If u put them all together that would make a mindful job :)

Myself I a high performance engine builder/ machinest for the v8 world. We all have out ways of accomplishing jobs. I really liked yor answers.

Personly I use a sunnen horizontal hone with dual abrasive with brass guid shoes. I use a 400 grit carbon silican stone at light pressure for a few strokes and works great. I've used ball homes and drill stone hones and they work to

To get off aluminum use meritac asid on the affected spots . This will not affect the cyl coating nikisil

All it winds down to is knowing what works for u :)


Thanks guys
 
Like to hear some thoughts on this?

Best way to deglaze a cylinder and or remove aluminum that has transferred but not affected the cylinder Finnish/ surface :thinking:
I have never had a hone do a satisfactory job of removing aluminum. It hits it, it bounces over it. If you run one of the finger hones on it long enough to remove the aluminum and it may take some of what you don't want off the rest of the surface. Muratic acid and a suitable brush, 1-3 applications.

After it is rinsed out enough to see well enough to determine that your bore is indeed clean, I use an aluminum oxide hone as 2stroke mentions. I size mine to where you can stick it into the bore and shake it to make it fall through. Usually I put a cylinder into a pan of water to hone it(the hone just seems to stay fresher if I do that). once out clean it in very hot water and soap. If If I am going to put it away for any length of time I spray something light on it, even wd40. If I am going to use any oil on the cylinder during assembly it is now atf that I rub off with a clean towel once it is coated. (look at the towel and see if it is really clean.)
I use a ball hone, use oil for lubrication and run the hone thru the cylinder sparingly, on a plated cylinder it only takes a few passes before the cylinder is cleaned up satisfactorily. After your finished I recomend using warm soapy water to remove any material left over from the honing process. After the water has been dried coat the cylinder surface lightly with oil before reassembly.



Wiseco makes a brush just for plated cylinders. Totally worth $50.
Never use a ball or stone hone on any plated cylinder. The balls chip the ports and that's where the peeling starts.
Scotch brite and PB blaster works well too in a pinch.
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I agree with the port chipping
And is the reason for my sizing suggestion. No chips since I started using it on an 83 KX when it was new. I was already doing that on cast cylinders since I was trying to keep them from getting ANY extra "wear". You can get that same bottle brush type hone elsewhere. I still like to size my hones the way I do and get the longer lasting affect with the ones I choose, counting snowmachines and outboards I haven't chipped in the 300 plus times I used one.
 
Thanks guys!! :). Liked to hear your input an this subject. All are good awsners!! If u put them all together that would make a mindful job :)

Myself I a high performance engine builder/ machinest for the v8 world. We all have out ways of accomplishing jobs. I really liked yor answers.

Personly I use a sunnen horizontal hone with dual abrasive with brass guid shoes. I use a 400 grit carbon silican stone at light pressure for a few strokes and works great. I've used ball homes and drill stone hones and they work to

To get off aluminum use meritac asid on the affected spots . This will not affect the cyl coating nikisil

All it winds down to is knowing what works for u :)


Thanks guys

Is that the
Thanks guys!! :). Liked to hear your input an this subject. All are good awsners!! If u put them all together that would make a mindful job :)

Myself I a high performance engine builder/ machinest for the v8 world. We all have out ways of accomplishing jobs. I really liked yor answers.

Personly I use a sunnen horizontal hone with dual abrasive with brass guid shoes. I use a 400 grit carbon silican stone at light pressure for a few strokes and works great. I've used ball homes and drill stone hones and they work to

To get off aluminum use meritac asid on the affected spots . This will not affect the cyl coating nikisil

All it winds down to is knowing what works for u :)


Thanks guys

Neither one of us did any first timers a favor by our spellings of 'muriatic'. If it is too hard to remember, HCL or hydrochloric acid. All the same stuff. Bottom line is it acts fast on aluminum and extremely slow on the other things we use for cylinder sleeves or plating. (Anyone who doesn't thing dragbike racers are tough hasn't seen a multi time national top fuel winner apply it with his greasy bare fingers.)
 
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