2 Stroke 14 ktm 250xcw wiring

Hey guys. Need some help with my 2014 ktm 250xcw. There is a connector block hooked to the battery holder. It has 3 wires going into the connector block, green, blue and a white striped wire. There are 2 fuses that connect beside the block. I need to know if one of you guys have any idea which order these wires are supposed to be placed in the connector block. Before you rip me apart I DO HAVE A MANUAL and it's a factory KTM one and it's completely worthless, as some of you may know.
 
Hey guys. Need some help with my 2014 ktm 250xcw. There is a connector block hooked to the battery holder. It has 3 wires going into the connector block, green, blue and a white striped wire. There are 2 fuses that connect beside the block. I need to know if one of you guys have any idea which order these wires are supposed to be placed in the connector block. Before you rip me apart I DO HAVE A MANUAL and it's a factory KTM one and it's completely worthless, as some of you may know.

Yes......the Katoom manuals are fairly worthless. Here's the connector on my 300xc, no blue wire but the yellow may go in the position where your blue one goes. The other 2 wire colors are the same as yours.

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Yeah too funny when the "owners manual" tells you which is the clutch lever and where to put the gas.

Best manuals I've used so far are from suzuki, most easy to acces for information, and also the most descriptive about every facet of the bikes operation/repair.
 
I'll take a picture of my wiring block when I get home. When I hit the starter button it just makes a clicking noise at the connector. It seems like no power is getting to the actual starter at all. Maybe the battery is bad? It's the stock battery about a year old. The headlight works fine tho... Maybe just not enough juice to turn it over?
 
How many volts have you got at the battery? Try it engine off, and engine on. Your manual probably tells you what the output should be from the charging system, and maybe at an rpm you will have to guess at.

Even worthless shop manuals seem to have some of that. (May not give cylinder piston clearances or a schematic on transmission parts, but usually some electrical specs.)

My last KTM was from the 80's and had a pretty good manual. Kawasaki, in the past came with a manual that was great. ( It was a good thing too.)
 
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I have a 14 300 xcw and I can take a pic of the connector and post here, but why are you asking, did you take the wires apart? If it is just starter clicking and nothing happening, the battery is probably shot. The stock batteries blow in these bikes. Can you get the bike over and start it? I'll go grab a pic.
 
One of the blade connectors inside the connecting block broke,i had to remove the wire to attach a new connector. I had to also remove another connector to show the napa guy what I was talking about. It has one of those tangs on the back to keep it in the block. I can't remember if I put it in right or not. A pic of yours would be great. The bike kicks over just fine. Sometimes after a few hours of riding it will try to electric start, so probably the battery, but why then does my light function? Maybe just enough charge for it. The manual is totally useless unless you wanna know where the grips are located. Also it's not the starter itself that's clicking, it's the box that the connector block goes into, possibly a relay or something?
 
i would look and see what kind of voltage you are getting before and after trying to start it. fully charged the battery should be 12.6 at least. relays(solenoids) etc sometimes won't connect when the current drops under a certain point. if it works off a jump from another battery or charger then low voltage may be the culprit, but every one does say those batteries don't last well at all. they have a pretty big job for their size and batteries in the past have NOT liked the pounding that someone is giving it if they are riding a ktm for it's money's worth.

fyi your lights will work on about half the voltage and 1/50th the amperage of your starter if you look at the draw specs. kind of like your car.
 
I will get you a picture of the connector, but sounds like everything is hooked up correctly, just need to get a good battery in there. I ran my bike with a bad battery and everything worked fine, just would not start off the e button. Lights will work while bike is running.
 
I will get you a picture of the connector, but sounds like everything is hooked up correctly, just need to get a good battery in there. I ran my bike with a bad battery and everything worked fine, just would not start off the e button. Lights will work while bike is running.
Sounds exactly like mine. I'll do a voltage reading
 
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