Gotcha. They are cool that's for sure.
I'm looking for another right now. The kiddo outgrew his 80 last weekend.
I've got my eyes on an XR100 for him now.
Now it's just a matter of getting the owner and his over-inflated sense of value to play ball.
Other The 1993 KLX650R Basket-Case Part 2
- Thread starter Trfsrfr
- Start date
Gotcha. They are cool that's for sure.
I'm looking for another right now. The kiddo outgrew his 80 last weekend.
I've got my eyes on an XR100 for him now.
Now it's just a matter of getting the owner and his over-inflated sense of value to play ball.
Update: The KLX650R-
IT LIVES.
After installing a Krieger manual cam chain tensioner, the bike runs awesome, and thumps like it should, when I can get it running.
No more guessing with the cam timing, and no more jumping teeth.
The automatic tensioner that came with the bike was obviously not working as it should.
I gave it the benefit of the doubt because it looked brand spanking new (no wear marks on the teeth or anywhere), but it obviously wasn't applying enough tension, allowing the chain/gears to jump position, which I have mentioned previously.
It appears this was the reason for the original owners problem, and I will never trust an automatic cam chain tensioner again.
After installing the new manual tensioner, all the cam/timing components stay where they should, and it runs well.
I still have to fine tune it, but it's functioning as it should, albeit a bit noisy. I'll monkey with it more tomorrow.
Now my issue is getting it started.
I dont have the leg to kick this thing for 5 minutes.
However, today I had it running for 5 minutes or so, and it sounds awesome.
The plastic choke/enricher cable just broke today too, so I am looking for an alternative, preferably one that eliminates the cable and just bolts onto the carb.
But even in my own VERY easily confused mind, I am certain that this is just a carb adjustment issue.
Thank you all for for your help, info, and guidance in this project.
IT LIVES.
After installing a Krieger manual cam chain tensioner, the bike runs awesome, and thumps like it should, when I can get it running.
No more guessing with the cam timing, and no more jumping teeth.
The automatic tensioner that came with the bike was obviously not working as it should.
I gave it the benefit of the doubt because it looked brand spanking new (no wear marks on the teeth or anywhere), but it obviously wasn't applying enough tension, allowing the chain/gears to jump position, which I have mentioned previously.
It appears this was the reason for the original owners problem, and I will never trust an automatic cam chain tensioner again.
After installing the new manual tensioner, all the cam/timing components stay where they should, and it runs well.
I still have to fine tune it, but it's functioning as it should, albeit a bit noisy. I'll monkey with it more tomorrow.
Now my issue is getting it started.
I dont have the leg to kick this thing for 5 minutes.
However, today I had it running for 5 minutes or so, and it sounds awesome.
The plastic choke/enricher cable just broke today too, so I am looking for an alternative, preferably one that eliminates the cable and just bolts onto the carb.
But even in my own VERY easily confused mind, I am certain that this is just a carb adjustment issue.
Thank you all for for your help, info, and guidance in this project.
Last edited:
Another update;
I am having fuel issues.
It runs strong, but it is very hard to start.
Also it smokes out the tail greyish black, so I am thinking unburnt fuel/rich condition.
Currently I have the pilot screw about 2 turns out.
It also has a hi-performance muffler on it.
The fuel filter used to stay at close to empty but would drip when needed, but now it is full up.
I ordered a new OEM choke cable and it should be here Monday, but I'm finding that I dont really need the choke to get it running. In fact it seems to make things worse...
I am having fuel issues.
It runs strong, but it is very hard to start.
Also it smokes out the tail greyish black, so I am thinking unburnt fuel/rich condition.
Currently I have the pilot screw about 2 turns out.
It also has a hi-performance muffler on it.
The fuel filter used to stay at close to empty but would drip when needed, but now it is full up.
I ordered a new OEM choke cable and it should be here Monday, but I'm finding that I dont really need the choke to get it running. In fact it seems to make things worse...
No, it does not start right up. I have to kick it a bunch. And while I am kicking it I smell gas.
I know it doesn't have the stock jets in it;
Main jet is a 158, stock is 135
Jet needle clip position is 2nd from top, stock is 1st groove.
Pilot is stock at #40.
I am still playing with it. I'll know more when I get the cable installed.
Played with it a little today.
Kicked it a bunch, then realized the gas was turned off. But still smelled gas.
Turned gas on, kicked it a bunch more, nothing.
Then choked it, nothing.
Un-choked it and the kicking became easier, then it popped a couple times.
Kicked some more, and she started.
Idle screw was about 2-1/2 turns out at this time.
Then it ran, and puked out some black smoke, and the inside of the Pro Circuit T-4 muff was black with soot.
Also puked out some whitish smoke.
Shut it down, and upon re-start she started on the first kick every time, until cold.
Ended up with the idle screw at about 2 turns out, but it didn't seem to make much difference.
Kicked it a bunch, then realized the gas was turned off. But still smelled gas.
Turned gas on, kicked it a bunch more, nothing.
Then choked it, nothing.
Un-choked it and the kicking became easier, then it popped a couple times.
Kicked some more, and she started.
Idle screw was about 2-1/2 turns out at this time.
Then it ran, and puked out some black smoke, and the inside of the Pro Circuit T-4 muff was black with soot.
Also puked out some whitish smoke.
Shut it down, and upon re-start she started on the first kick every time, until cold.
Ended up with the idle screw at about 2 turns out, but it didn't seem to make much difference.
Another update.
1st - No premix.
Got the chain master link and the front swing-arm rubber chain guide I ordered from Motosport, and put the chain on today for the first time.
Got it running, which didn't take as long as last time, but still had to kick it a bunch. And yes, I have learned to get it to TDC first. It is a requirement I guess, unless I want to join the huge right leg club. It reminds me of those old Harley guys kicking their bikes.
Took it out for it's first ride since I got it...and wow, this thing is wicked powerful and fast. Way too much bike for me!
Top end is still too noisy for me. I have heard that they are somewhat noisy, but I am wondering if I dont need to screw in the tensioner a bit more?
I have a stethoscope and tried adjusting it a few days ago but didn't really see any improvement in noise, just improvement in the chain & cams staying where they should.
If I can upload a GoPro video so y'all can hear it I will, but they are huge files so not sure If I could do it...I'll give it a shot though and see what happens.
1st - No premix.
Got the chain master link and the front swing-arm rubber chain guide I ordered from Motosport, and put the chain on today for the first time.
Got it running, which didn't take as long as last time, but still had to kick it a bunch. And yes, I have learned to get it to TDC first. It is a requirement I guess, unless I want to join the huge right leg club. It reminds me of those old Harley guys kicking their bikes.
Took it out for it's first ride since I got it...and wow, this thing is wicked powerful and fast. Way too much bike for me!
Top end is still too noisy for me. I have heard that they are somewhat noisy, but I am wondering if I dont need to screw in the tensioner a bit more?
I have a stethoscope and tried adjusting it a few days ago but didn't really see any improvement in noise, just improvement in the chain & cams staying where they should.
If I can upload a GoPro video so y'all can hear it I will, but they are huge files so not sure If I could do it...I'll give it a shot though and see what happens.
Turns out there was an exhaust heat shield clamp that was loose and rattling around on the header pipe. Tightened her up and went for a mile long ride. This thing is awesome. Now I know why it needs tires.
Still a bit noisy in the head, but I think that it's getting closer to acceptable. I think it's probably the valve shims...
When I goose it and the front tire comes up I get a big shit-eating grin on my face, but upon deceleration it has front end shake that makes me glad I wasn't going any faster. When I rock it back and forth with the front brake on there is a "loose spot" up front that I haven't been able to track down yet; everything is tight. Feels like it might be be in the tubes, but have a hard time pinpointing without someone else to help rock it.
Cooling system, transmission and lights all work as they should.
Still a bit noisy in the head, but I think that it's getting closer to acceptable. I think it's probably the valve shims...
When I goose it and the front tire comes up I get a big shit-eating grin on my face, but upon deceleration it has front end shake that makes me glad I wasn't going any faster. When I rock it back and forth with the front brake on there is a "loose spot" up front that I haven't been able to track down yet; everything is tight. Feels like it might be be in the tubes, but have a hard time pinpointing without someone else to help rock it.
Cooling system, transmission and lights all work as they should.
Yes, I see this now. I got her to fire up in about 5-6 kicks this last time, without using the choke/enrichener, although it had only been about 1-1/2-2 hours from when I went for the ride.
Also, spoke with dude from Pro Circuit exhaust, and he said to install a main jet that is closer to 150 (instead of the 158) to try and clean up the soot if I wanted to. But also said to maybe not worry about it since it runs well, and makes good power.
