2 Stroke 1988 CR250R Wont start / Wet Plug
- Thread starter Stringer
- Start date
I sure hope I can get this part figured out without having to buy a second manual! If anyone is familiar with this HPP system please chime in.
Today I did make progress as I was able to rebuild the front master cylinder. Just need to buy some more DOT4 and test it out!
It went relatively smooth and I think it should work great now.
Well I was working on and studying the HPP powerport valves last night in the dark, and I actually got everything perfect. Until I installed a bolt that secures the rack and it knocked everything out of whack again. Hopefully no damage was done. I am trying to find the time to give it another go, preferably in the day time. All I have is a screened porch and the lighting is horrible. And every day for the last 6 months has been rainy. This HPP shit is pissing me off! Am I the only one with an HPP dinosaur?
Not the case, unfortunately.
My front brake drag issue is also becoming a major pain in the ass. The caliper is completely rebuilt with new everything, and I got that new OEM brake pad pin in there too. New bearings and seals. Front master cylinder is now rebuilt, and I installed the new moose rotor, along with a used eBay dust cover that fits a 1988 CR250R front wheel as I was missing one. It doesn't fit my wheel. I got aggravated and just cut the mounting tabs off, and siliconed the bitch in there.
And the rotor is not aligning correctly with the caliper, as when looking at the assembly from standing in front of the bike, the rotor sits to the extreme far right of the slot in my caliper! There is literally just a hair of clearance between the rotor and the caliper bracket. WTF!
Also when the wheel is installed it seems to be sitting too far to the right, so the tire slightly rubs the fork boot, in addition to sitting too far right in the caliper slot. I believe I may possibly have a 1989 front wheel on my 1988 bike. I'm assuming the easiest fix should be to shim the wheel over about 1/16" or so to the left with maybe a hardened steel washer on one side of the front wheel collar?
I am heading out to the hardware store to look for an appropriate washer, and some more prestone DOT4.
Not the case, unfortunately.
My front brake drag issue is also becoming a major pain in the ass. The caliper is completely rebuilt with new everything, and I got that new OEM brake pad pin in there too. New bearings and seals. Front master cylinder is now rebuilt, and I installed the new moose rotor, along with a used eBay dust cover that fits a 1988 CR250R front wheel as I was missing one. It doesn't fit my wheel. I got aggravated and just cut the mounting tabs off, and siliconed the bitch in there.
And the rotor is not aligning correctly with the caliper, as when looking at the assembly from standing in front of the bike, the rotor sits to the extreme far right of the slot in my caliper! There is literally just a hair of clearance between the rotor and the caliper bracket. WTF!
Also when the wheel is installed it seems to be sitting too far to the right, so the tire slightly rubs the fork boot, in addition to sitting too far right in the caliper slot. I believe I may possibly have a 1989 front wheel on my 1988 bike. I'm assuming the easiest fix should be to shim the wheel over about 1/16" or so to the left with maybe a hardened steel washer on one side of the front wheel collar?
I am heading out to the hardware store to look for an appropriate washer, and some more prestone DOT4.
Thanks but my spacers are easily identifiable, one is aluminum flanged, other is steel non-flanged. Allow me to add to the confusion... When I took the front wheel off the first time, there was an extra part in there, used as some sort of spacer. I can't find it now but it wasn't quite a washer, more like a steel pipe cut like a coin with an 1/8" or so thickness. It wasn't OEM, but looks like it was there to offset the wheel a bit. I think it was actually a little too thick, so I was going to try a washer instead. Now looking at the OEM part diagram below, there is a part I have circled that is not shown on any part list, and is also not shown in my Clymer manual. I was thinking maybe because of the absence of this part, my wheel does not center correctly. And also, the 1988 hub cover that does not fit this wheel. So basically, I don't know what the fuck is going on, but hopefully this washer will fix it.
I have centered custom wheels and brakes on a GSXR recently with a combination of flat washers on the axle and behind the brake caliper.
-BIG DAN
I had gotten 2 washers from the hardware store, one thinner than the other. I tried the thinner one first and it was too thick, slid everything to the other far end of the caliper bracket. So I ended up making my own out of an extra reed valve. It was all I had. I had to double up and use two because these are very thin. But it seems to be centered much better now.
Yes but I cannot find such a part number. No listing for this part, I only see it in diagram. No luck with ebay search either.
Well the wheel seems to spin OK I guess, before I was getting 2.25 turns, now im getting about 5.25 turns. Maybe it will free up a bit with use? Is this amount of spin acceptable? It does roll much easier now than it ever did before.
Well I tried setting the valves up again but no luck. If I could just make it past these HPP valves, I feel like I'd be home free at that point. I have worn out google with no luck. I really need some HPP valve help.
My wife got her wish, she has her screened porch back. Today was yet another dark rainy day, all day, and I couldn't see shit ... again. So I brought it inside the foyer. She has no idea yet and will be home any moment. Should be fun.
At least it's a lot cleaner than when I had gotten it?
Second kick. It started on the second kick!
What a pain in the ass it was to get back together too!
Well I let it warm up for maybe a minute, blipping the throttle, trying not to go past 2/3, dropped the choke, and drove it for about 7 minutes going pretty easy on it. I was getting a lot of hesitation though, felt like I was riding something that needed to be warmed up first but wasn't. And this didn't go away. I got off and parked it for the night, and could immediately see where black spooge was coming from tailpipe (that I just cleaned and repacked), as well as the exhaust coupler. I suppose it was running really rich??? It was doing this before the rebuild too...
For the transmission oil I put in Belray 75wt gearsaver oil. For the premix I went with Honda HR2 @ 32:1 with fresh Sunoco 90 octane non-ethanol. Then evans waterless coolant.
Just to recap the carb is completely spotless and totally rebuilt. Everything is OEM with stock sizes. All new gaskets and seals, vent lines, jets, etc etc. Screw set to 2 turns out per manual. Reed valve assembly is spotless and closes tight, zero gaps, all new gaskets, etc. Air filter is brand new oiled Uni filter. Plug is new NGK.
What am I in for now you think? Hopefully a simple adjustment?
What a pain in the ass it was to get back together too!
Well I let it warm up for maybe a minute, blipping the throttle, trying not to go past 2/3, dropped the choke, and drove it for about 7 minutes going pretty easy on it. I was getting a lot of hesitation though, felt like I was riding something that needed to be warmed up first but wasn't. And this didn't go away. I got off and parked it for the night, and could immediately see where black spooge was coming from tailpipe (that I just cleaned and repacked), as well as the exhaust coupler. I suppose it was running really rich??? It was doing this before the rebuild too...
For the transmission oil I put in Belray 75wt gearsaver oil. For the premix I went with Honda HR2 @ 32:1 with fresh Sunoco 90 octane non-ethanol. Then evans waterless coolant.
Just to recap the carb is completely spotless and totally rebuilt. Everything is OEM with stock sizes. All new gaskets and seals, vent lines, jets, etc etc. Screw set to 2 turns out per manual. Reed valve assembly is spotless and closes tight, zero gaps, all new gaskets, etc. Air filter is brand new oiled Uni filter. Plug is new NGK.
What am I in for now you think? Hopefully a simple adjustment?
Nice catch! I will try to see if I can get a seller to throw a caliper on it, so I know before buying.
I really hope that's all it is, because I am seriously tired of working on it! My manual, which was new when I started, is almost worn out haha. If that is the case, how long do you think I may need to run it for it to clear up? I just coated the cylinder wall and piston for the install, and maybe 2oz or so worked into the crank.
I haven't had a chance to ride it today, too much going on. I am praying this is an easy fix. I've come too far.
I also feel like I could handle a bike twice as fast. Not sure if this thing is just slow or what?
Yours looks almost like mine did when i got it the summer of 88. I still have the rolling chassis.
If you are still getting the plug wet, set the float. If you are still getting a wet plug after running it awhile, try turning the idle control all the way down tight. you won't have an idle, but it makes it possible to ride it without fouling plugs. changing the carburetor out for a pwk is the best way to go, but may not be worth it to you moneywise.
the 88 was the bike to have for several years, but it wont run like the next series of engines did.
If you are still getting the plug wet, set the float. If you are still getting a wet plug after running it awhile, try turning the idle control all the way down tight. you won't have an idle, but it makes it possible to ride it without fouling plugs. changing the carburetor out for a pwk is the best way to go, but may not be worth it to you moneywise.
the 88 was the bike to have for several years, but it wont run like the next series of engines did.