2 Stroke 1988 CR250R Wont start / Wet Plug
- Thread starter Stringer
- Start date
Good to know if I am ever in anchorage and need my hose blown on.
See......I KNEW when I wrote that either you flake or mike would say something.....Like flies on shit.
What a great idea this was, thanks! I followed your directions exactly and repeated many times. The float assembly is working perfect. I rechecked the float height and I'm dead on. And the float itself is dry, no cracks and not taking in gas. This carb is ultra clean, set to manufacturer specs exactly, new gaskets, main, and slow jet, new fuel and vent lines, the works. I even dialed in the idler per specs which is done by actually twisting in and out the choke knob.
Yes the only time I have seen gas exit the new overflow tube is when I have the carb out, and I have it tilted sideways or upside-down. As far as the spark, when I use your method I get good spark. However when I put on my timberland boots (which seem to be of little help), keep a plug in the cylinder, and one in the boot touching the head and kick with boots I am usually unable to generate a good spark. Amount of force required to kick it over is very high it seems, though the biggest I've had in the past is a 125. With the plug from the cylinder removed however, it is extremely easy to crank, and spark is good. Reed valve assembly looks great too. Though now I need a new gasket. I wonder if I would be better off just buying the whole engine gasket kit since it looks like im in for a ride lol.
I did just order a pair of fly maverick boots for under 100 shipped. reviews looked very good, and specifications indicated it also has steel shank support
I think at this point the previous 2 orders tried what they could to lean this bike out but never got anywhere. I might be over my head on this one, which is scary.
He's got spark
I am thinking this bike needs a good pull start to get the piston, rings, and crank cleared out and lubricated properly. Then it will kick/start ALOT easier.
It is the remedy on the 89 YZ everytime. I think it may be related to crank bearings on their way out.-BIG DAN
When I had bought this bike it was running. Got it home and ran it around for a bit, went through about a half tank. Each time this bike was started it was difficult. Difficult in that the amount of pressure needed to kick the bike over seems high, and also it would foul plugs with oil and I assume also gas like it does now. Do you still think that is the case, bad crank bearings? Do you have to be an expert to install those? Thanks!
Did it smoke really badly when it was running? Did the smoke smell terrible? How much drained out when you changed the trans fluid? Was it the correct amount? Lots of gross spooge out the exhaust that doesn't look like it was vaporized?
A bad crank seal on the oil side will display itself clearly in a super 'rich', hard to start, stinky mess.
A bad crank seal on the air side will lean out the engine detrimentally, or be impossible to start.
Crank seals are easy to change.
As far as me suspecting crank bearings for the excessive kickstarter pressure, It's just a guess about my bike, and it hasn't concerned me enough to change them.
It's not an 'expert task,' just more involved than crank seal replacement as you have to split the cases. Any 'home garage mechanic' should give it a shot once or twice.
-BIG DAN
A bad crank seal on the oil side will display itself clearly in a super 'rich', hard to start, stinky mess.
A bad crank seal on the air side will lean out the engine detrimentally, or be impossible to start.
Crank seals are easy to change.
As far as me suspecting crank bearings for the excessive kickstarter pressure, It's just a guess about my bike, and it hasn't concerned me enough to change them.
It's not an 'expert task,' just more involved than crank seal replacement as you have to split the cases. Any 'home garage mechanic' should give it a shot once or twice.-BIG DAN
One other idea as far as the extra effort in kicking is if it has all new gaskets, does it have an actual gasket for the crank case halves? Or did they use gasket maker? I've seen using gasket maker instead of an actual paper gasket cause problems, if the crank bearing preload was designed to be set up with a gasket, removing it could cause the bearings to be to tight when case halves are bolted together.....in other words on some bikes, the thickness of the paper gasket is acting like a shim as well as sealing the engine....if you have the top end off for any reason you could put bike in neutral and spin the crank with the rod, it should not have any resistance and spin freely with no binding If not this is something I would consider as a cause.
That is the more you shit, the flies will come out. Being predictable is one thing, being a fuck stick like CR500 is another. Daddy should have squirted him off on the sheets.
No problems here......you make this forum a better place, I'll get ya back later...trust me.
Did it smoke really badly when it was running? Did the smoke smell terrible? How much drained out when you changed the trans fluid? Was it the correct amount? Lots of gross spooge out the exhaust that doesn't look like it was vaporized?
A bad crank seal on the oil side will display itself clearly in a super 'rich', hard to start, stinky mess.
A bad crank seal on the air side will lean out the engine detrimentally, or be impossible to start.
Crank seals are easy to change.
As far as me suspecting crank bearings for the excessive kickstarter pressure, It's just a guess about my bike, and it hasn't concerned me enough to change them.
-BIG DAN
Yeah it sure smoked badly during the small window I saw it running. As far as smell, I have no idea I can't smell so good. When I drained the transmission fluid it looked like the correct amount, though I did not measure. Id be surprised if it was either low or high. It did have a lot of black oil coming from exhaust, though I have no idea if it was "vaporized" or not? It has certainly been running hella rich.
This has actual gaskets, with the exception of the 4 gaskets used on the HPP system which are indeed gasket maker when OEM calls for actual gaskets.
Can the HPP system cause it to run super rich?
Sounds like a crank seal to me, if your float and jet are correct. -BIG DAN
Ok thanks!! Looks like I can get these cheap on ebay for $11.45 shipped (Pro-X brand), they claim to be made by oem Japanese manufacturers. Do you have to split the case for this, or just open a side cover? Is there a tutorial somewhere that you know of? Thanks a lot for the help!!
For the oil side you don't split the cases, just the right side engine cover, after you drain the engine fluids, that's the side that's sucking the oil....the left side is the dry side, remove the stator cover and then the flywheel, no special tools needed 'cept for a fly wheel puller and you'll need to either hold the clutch basket on the right side or use an impact to rattle of the fastener for the basket. It's pretty straight forward.
I just ordered a complete top and bottom end gasket set, and a new pro-x crank oil seal (along with a lot of other things I got going on, wheel bearings, brake pads, caliper rebuilds, misc parts, etc etc)
So you think if I change out the crank oil seal this thing should shed these symptoms? Getting anxious to ride it! lol! This is a journey for sure.
So you think if I change out the crank oil seal this thing should shed these symptoms? Getting anxious to ride it! lol! This is a journey for sure.
I just ordered a complete top and bottom end gasket set, and a new pro-x crank oil seal (along with a lot of other things I got going on, wheel bearings, brake pads, caliper rebuilds, misc parts, etc etc)
So you think if I change out the crank oil seal this thing should shed these symptoms? Getting anxious to ride it! lol! This is a journey for sure.
If the crank seal is the problem, then yeah....and a bad seal could cause most or all your problems. Get that squared away and let us know how it runs, and fire off any questions along the way if anything comes up.