Choices for first time

Hi there,
I've been looking at bikes and asking around. I've had a few feelers out there and have come across a couple bikes I could use an opinion on, as I have no clue!

First one is a 2003 Yamaha YZ250 2stroke. They say it's in great condition and maintained. Asking $2k for me with the friend discount.

Second one is a 2005 Honda CRF450R for $1600
Third - 2006 YZ450f for $2100
Then - 2003 Honda CRF 230F for $1700

I just want it to run right, stay together for a few months until I adjust and can get a race bike.. If I find one that covers all bases then even better
 
Go right to the crf 230.
Great bike that requires little maintaining through out its life.
Oil changes, tires, chain adjustments and air filter cleaning. Once a year take it in and have the valves adjusted.
You'll never grow tired of the 230 and it's so easy to ride and so cheap to maintain.
I would offer 1500 cash for it in good condition.

The other bikes you listed are race bikes and I would never ever recommend a race bike to anyone without good riding experience.

Awesome bike for the nephew!!!

Good luck and keep us posted
 
Go right to the crf 230.
Great bike that requires little maintaining through out its life.
Oil changes, tires, chain adjustments and air filter cleaning. Once a year take it in and have the valves adjusted.
You'll never grow tired of the 230 and it's so easy to ride and so cheap to maintain.
I would offer 1500 cash for it in good condition.

The other bikes you listed are race bikes and I would never ever recommend a race bike to anyone without good riding experience.

Awesome bike for the nephew!!!

Good luck and keep us posted

It is pretty awesome! just the right size but he will out grow the power soon. He's already full throttle out. Now to just work on technique. I found someone that will train us for $40 per hour. I don't thing that's too bad, is it? He's a former A class rider and has a strong history of wins.

I'm making an offer on the 230, unless you feel there is something else I should be looking for? There are quite a few different sizes out there! I'm a bit worried about bike height but I figure if I can get a leg over it and stand flat foot on one side it shouldn't be too bad.

Thanks for all your help!
 
It is pretty awesome! just the right size but he will out grow the power soon. He's already full throttle out. Now to just work on technique. I found someone that will train us for $40 per hour. I don't thing that's too bad, is it? He's a former A class rider and has a strong history of wins.

I'm making an offer on the 230, unless you feel there is something else I should be looking for? There are quite a few different sizes out there! I'm a bit worried about bike height but I figure if I can get a leg over it and stand flat foot on one side it shouldn't be too bad.

Thanks for all your help!


The only other one would be the TTR 230. The crf is a great bike and you'll be happy with it for years to come. I can go anywhere on one of those and be fairly competitive and remain confident it will handle everything I throw at it.
Kids outgrow bikes very quickly which is why I almost always bought used bikes for my kid growing up. A crf80 or 60cc race bike will be his next challenge.
$40 an hour isn't bad at all providing he spends all of his time with you and the little monster and not texting his chick.
 
The only other one would be the TTR 230. The crf is a great bike and you'll be happy with it for years to come. I can go anywhere on one of those and be fairly competitive and remain confident it will handle everything I throw at it.
Kids outgrow bikes very quickly which is why I almost always bought used bikes for my kid growing up. A crf80 or 60cc race bike will be his next challenge.
$40 an hour isn't bad at all providing he spends all of his time with you and the little monster and not texting his chick.

He sound's pretty legit and responsible actually. I've emailed with him to find out details and see how quick he is. Surprisingly he gets back to me with in an hour or two. He's also willing to let me ride his 125 around to learn, "We might be able to get you lessons yourself. Even without your own bike. If your just looking at learning the basics. I have a '13 YZ125, a great beginner teaching tool. If you were that anxious to learn." Not sure about the size with my "girth" lol
The monster will get on him I'm sure lol. The 50 is a loaner from a good friend who has a plethora of bikes and experience, so there is no financial worries there!!! Now to just keep grandma from jumping the gun and buying him a new one... easier said than done! I'm looking forward to him growing and advancing. It's so awesome to watch the little buggers grow and learn.
 
It is pretty awesome! just the right size but he will out grow the power soon. He's already full throttle out. Now to just work on technique. I found someone that will train us for $40 per hour. I don't thing that's too bad, is it? He's a former A class rider and has a strong history of wins.

I'm making an offer on the 230, unless you feel there is something else I should be looking for? There are quite a few different sizes out there! I'm a bit worried about bike height but I figure if I can get a leg over it and stand flat foot on one side it shouldn't be too bad.

Thanks for all your help!

I wouldn't spend money in that range with anyone that wasn't successful at TEACHING. I know plenty of people who have won lots of races that really aren't teachers. If he/she is all that is available I think I would get the Gary Semics course. Go through it and start videoing you and your young rider. At that point if you want to spend a couple of hours with the A rider you should be able to compare what he stresses with what Semics stresses. Then decide if you want to keep paying him.

At this point the words win and race shouldn't even be brought up. The words correct, control, progress etc and words synonymous with them should be what you are hearing. speed and the confidence to push for more speed are a bonus. Much like any sport.
 
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I wouldn't spend money in that range with anyone that wasn't successful at TEACHING. I know plenty of people who have one lots of races that really aren't teachers. If he/she is all that is available I think I would get the Gary Semics course. Go through it and start videoing you and your young rider. At that point if you want to spend a couple of hours with the A rider you should be able to compare what he stresses with what Semics stresses. Then decide if you want to keep paying him.

At this point the words win and race shouldn't even be brought up. The words correct, control, progress etc and words synonymous with them should be what you are hearing. speed and the confidence to push for more speed are a bonus. Much like any sport.


Word:thumb:
 
I wouldn't spend money in that range with anyone that wasn't successful at TEACHING. I know plenty of people who have won lots of races that really aren't teachers. If he/she is all that is available I think I would get the Gary Semics course. Go through it and start videoing you and your young rider. At that point if you want to spend a couple of hours with the A rider you should be able to compare what he stresses with what Semics stresses. Then decide if you want to keep paying him.

At this point the words win and race shouldn't even be brought up. The words correct, control, progress etc and words synonymous with them should be what you are hearing. speed and the confidence to push for more speed are a bonus. Much like any sport.

Learning the skills and proper way is definitely first on the list. I found another guy who runs the track and has been teaching for years. Seems like a better teacher than someone I don't know much. I've seen him going around the track and helping everyone for years. He said $90 for 2 hours before the track opens. That includes practice fees and through out the day he comes and checks on him and gives him some correcting and more coaching if needed. I trust this guy. He's older and rode for years, not to mention has lots of knowledge about the sport all together!

On another note my little man had his first moto crash. He kind of forgot to turn on a berm and superman'd it into the weeds. He was a bit scared and just came out with a bruise. Me and the guys were giving him a hard time about knowing when to jump vs when to turn! That got him smiling and back on the bike pretty quick. I'm impressed with how determined he is :-) that's my Cheeto Man!!
 
That sounds more promising. I would follow the same line on him as far as the comparisions go. I tend to gravitate to "universal drills" and not just teaching a track, and that gets into about anyone's self conscious plane when they are working out of the same place all the time. But it sounds like a good place to start and may keep the flying "W's" to a minimum. FYI for most young kids that I have been around, going around the same track gets pretty boring too after awhile and that tends to generate some accidents as they try to out do themselves. Mixing some trail riding in may show you that he is more interested in that.
 
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I like 125's for me, and if you bought one (two stroke such as a yz or rm etc) I think you would do better on that one as far as a racebike is concerned compared to the yz250. I like the 6 speed 125's much better than the 5 speed bikes since you have a more versatile rig. If you are talking about a 4 stroke 125 such as a tt125 I think it would be fine to start out on.

If you buy the 125 two stroke you can expect it to feel lighter than the 250's and 450's and probably will require lower gearing to begin with so you can start off in gear easier and get around tracks or trails. I have a couple of them (yz 125's ) of the older design with bigbore kits on them that make a much easier engine to ride trails with and they have been VERY reliable. I have seen some that came from "butcher shops" that ran poorly and broke often, so buying one that didnt come from a good source is risky. Pay 5-600 for one in need of a cylinder and build your own is my suggestion if one of those interests you.
 
I like 125's for me, and if you bought one (two stroke such as a yz or rm etc) I think you would do better on that one as far as a racebike is concerned compared to the yz250. I like the 6 speed 125's much better than the 5 speed bikes since you have a more versatile rig. If you are talking about a 4 stroke 125 such as a tt125 I think it would be fine to start out on.

If you buy the 125 two stroke you can expect it to feel lighter than the 250's and 450's and probably will require lower gearing to begin with so you can start off in gear easier and get around tracks or trails. I have a couple of them (yz 125's ) of the older design with bigbore kits on them that make a much easier engine to ride trails with and they have been VERY reliable. I have seen some that came from "butcher shops" that ran poorly and broke often, so buying one that didnt come from a good source is risky. Pay 5-600 for one in need of a cylinder and build your own is my suggestion if one of those interests you.

I'm going to go look at a 03 honda CRF 230F tomorrow. He's asking 1700 but I asked if he'd take 1500. He said yes and he's the second ADULT owner. Any tips on what to look for?
 
How much time are you going to take and how well equipped is your tool box? FYI a nice one of those will still be worth close to what you paid for it in a year.

If you cant disassemble anything or everything, I like to work the suspension a bit on both ends. observe if any leaks or oil rings appear on the fork tubes or the shock shaft. if oil appears you need some seals. suspend it off the ground. lift up on the rear wheel a little and then let it drop in your hand. if you feel clunks or clicks there is some linkage or shock bearings that need replacing. hold onto the rear wheel and stabilize the frame by pressing your shoulder into it somewhere about the place where the seat meets the frame rail. push back and forth just like the axle had arrows on each end and you are trying to follow the arrows. if you feel any of those clunks or clicks you need wheel bearings and or pivot pin bearings. I carry a torque wrench because invariably the owner will say that "they probably just need tighteing". if the axle and pivot bolt still move at 65 ft lbs they are shot. even if they do take up slack that means that they may be worn to the point of needing torquing.

take a multimeter out and test the battery before starting. should be reading about 12.5 to 12.6 volts or you write down that the battery is due for replacement. (check it again running and see if it meets specs which should be over 13 volts at least).

look at the chain and sprockets. most bikes need them because most people neglect them. the sprockets should have teeth that look symmetrical. you will probably have to wipe them off to tell. if they are not symmetrical or look like they are forming a hook, t hen it needs sprockets and unless the chain was just put on and not run it needs a chain too. look at the chain and see if the rollers have play on the pins. a pencil is kind of handy to use to pry on one roller against the one next to it to see if you get movement.

look at the engine for obvious leaks and cracks or other collision damage. this means looking underneath. carry a flashlight. it comes in handy to look down the air tract to the carburetor.

Take out the air cleaner. use a kleenex to rub against the part that is in the intake tract to the carburetor. make sure that tract is all the kleenex touches. examine the Kleenex for grit. It there is ANY at all, then the piston and bore need help. ditto the valves and guides.

Still got time? take off the left side/magneto cover and grip onto the flywheel rotor and pull up and push down hard. ANY movement at all that isnt in your joints means you need main bearings and that would be a deal breaker if I was you. So you might want to start with that one.

as you go take notes on everything you test and the results.

Then start it or have him start it and ride it away and down shift at a point you specify. see if it is blowing any kind of smoke. black is fine, we can tune that out, blue or what sometimes appears almost white means the internals of the engine are in need of help.

then ride it yourself if he will let you and see if you like it. that is really important.

I think those are great bikes and things like cables and brake pads are almost an expected replacement or 30 day upgrade so I dont waste much time there.

Those other points above like the worn wheel bearings etc can probably make you and extra 100 to 150 dollars by showing him they are worn and when he sees you taking notes he may be getting bored and worried about what else you are going to find and drop the price or offer you beer, or both.

If you find the grit I talked about, then you are going to offer something like 1k to 1150. you can get a bigbore kit while you replace things.

tires, rims for round and dings (spin them while it is up in the air and see what kind of wobbles you get).

The way I usually word things is that I give the guy a dollar figure like "i know you said 17, but if I like it I would offer up to 15. I don't want to waste your time or mine. Should I come see it?" or words to that affect. lets him know I am not going over 15 but may be offering less.
 
I'm going to go look at a 03 honda CRF 230F tomorrow. He's asking 1700 but I asked if he'd take 1500. He said yes and he's the second ADULT owner. Any tips on what to look for?


The bike should look clean and be free of any dirt. Like ossa said the big things to watch out for are the suspension leaks like he mentioned and wheel wobble. Grab the front and rear wheel seperatly and shake side to side. If the wheels give a little before the rest of the bike moves then it needs bearings somewhere. It will be noticeable especially if you bring your friend with working knowledge. In the event it isn't spotless and the sprockets are worn it is usually a sign the bike is in need of repair or maintenance. Everything you have to do to make it in good condition should knock about $100 off the $1500 price.
Example: needs wheel bearings -100
Needs fork seals -100
Needs grips -0
Needs brake or clutch levers -50
Needs tires -150
Broken plastics -100
Sprockets and chain -$150

Don't beat the guy up but don't be sucker for the " it's always done that" or "it's no big deal"

That being said the crf is a tough bike and I would expect it to be in ready to ride condition. Its also an ideal bike for you to ride well up until your racing career starts. :thumb:

Good luck.
 
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